I have seen pictures of an A frame (like this, just taller) being used to pull the body from a GMC motorhome. (Like the one in the back ground.) So I figured a shorter version would work for this less demanding application. I used a saw horse hardware kit, that I would not use for a heaver lift. 2x4x8 legs, 2x6x8 cross bar.
Some diagonal supports from material I had on hand. 1 ton Harbor Fright chain hoist attached with a pair (doubled up) of strap ties (found with the nail plates) from Home depot.
Another 2x6x8 for the "spreader bar" chain hoist connected with some more strap ties.
The weight bearing "spreader bar guides" are sitting on 2x4 "feet." (See 1st picture.)
For the lift of the TinTop body, I was still trying to find the balance point and used the load leveler I use for motor installs. Lifted OK but wasn't as much under control as I would like.
You can see it isn't quite balanced.
The rear required a little hand lifting and propping up.
Rust free, but dirty and greasy.
It was getting dark. So I set the body on wooden supports on top of the "new"chassis.
The next day I set the body on the chassis with all the rubber mounts and....
Pushed it out front to be washed and wait the metal work.
Now to get the parts car body on the "old" chassis... the body is sitting in the "user" motorhome's winter parking spot.
I skipped the use on the spreader bar and bolted the chains directly to the outboard front bolt for the front seats.
Much more controlled lift. Just needed to open the doors for chain clearance. Next time, I'll use the spreader bar and connect to these same points on the body.
The rear still had to be "hand lifted" and propped up. But I could do it with one hand. I might go back to the cherry picker. (See the post when I pulled the parts body... and dropped it!) But not as the main lift... just to lift and control the rear. like Yoda says, "Control, you must learn control!"
Rolled the chassis under and lowered the rear into the holes on the rear mountings.
Lowered the body lining up each mount as the angle gets less. I left a wooden support under the front to space the front sheet metal from the frame. It should make it easier when I cut it off for transplant later.
Now to push everything out of the way, The "good" motorhome wants it's parking place.
Wow, that is amazing. How heavy would you estimate the shell of the body to be? You sure know how to engineer things, great job!
ReplyDeleteThe whole running and driving 2 door Sidekick is about 2500lbs. most of the weight is in the chassis... frame drive train and suspension. I am thinking the body shell shouldn't be more than 800lbs. Most likely less. (Depending on year and what had been removed or left on the body...) I think the lift is a little "over engineered" as I have pictures of a taller lift of the same design being used to pull a body shell from a GMC motorhome. (Like the ones seen in the back ground.) I tested this one by lifting a rolling chassis a few inches and left it hanging for a few days.
ReplyDeleteHi Mike.
ReplyDeleteGood work. Your idea to me it fits. I'm going to take off "shed" Vitara 1.6 3door (1991).
Can provide more detail? Base dimensions.
Thanks Johny
How hard would it be for someone with very little experience to do this with two 86 samurais. And if i didn't do it how much would a shop charge
ReplyDelete