The New Towd -- Sidekick v2

I sold our small 2 door Sidekick on July 4th. On the 6th I put in a bid for a 'totaled' 1996 Sidekick Sport at a Copart Auction. I won the bidding and paid the fees. (More than I expected.) Here it is "As Delivered."



Issues at delivery.

-- Driver's outside mirror missing... looks broken off.
-- Both front rims bent. Right tire looks OK, but left tire has two large blisters on the sidewall.
-- Left front fender dented.
-- Left headlight surround broken.
-- All trim scratched, some loose.
-- Front suspension damaged.
----- Tie rods shot. left side inner and outer along with center.
----- Left ball joint damaged.
----- Steering wheel not centered.
----- Front struts leaking.
-- Radio (Alpine) was removed sometime between viewing and delivery.
-- Spare tire old and cracking.
-- Even though it had been used as a Towd, the tow brackets had been removed. Most like by the PO. (Previous Owner)
-- Even though It was billed as "Runs and Drives." It would not start. (Dead battery.)

Two gets Brighter -- H4 Headlights

For years the US has restricted the types of headlights that could be used in North America(NA). While lighting technology was moving ahead everywhere else, NA drivers had to make due with old sealed beam headlights. I can understand some of the concern... you really do not want drivers blinding each other with too bright headlights. BUT... many of the available lights (in places other than NA) have better coverage where you want the light, and more importantly, much better light cut off to keep the light out of on-coming driver's eyes. (Nothing like two blind drivers piloting tons of steel towards each other, at high speed, expecting to "miss" each other by a few feet!)

The laws have slowly changed and better lights are now legal here.

SO... The old technology sealed beams need to go.

I got some headlights with replaceable bulbs off the Internet. They look like good lights and have "city lights."


From the front, the lights look a lot like the sealed beams. The glass has a non-symmetrical pattern is a little "flatter."


The back has a large rubber seal and the city light bulb sticking out the lower part of the back.


The replaceable H-4 bulbs can be found almost anywhere and use the same connection as the sealed beam.


Due to the shield on the old plug will not plug onto the new lights....



... a little work with the dikes fixed that. Note that I also installed a headlight relay harness (see my last post) and did not "need" to do this. But I wanted a back-up if I had problems with the relays.


This is using the stock harness, a new H-4 light in one side and a old sealed beam in the other side. Can you guess what side is which? (Notice the light cut off on the spare tire cover... I have seen better but this isn't near as bad as many.)



It isn't hard to tell from here. The one light was installed without the city light or the large rubber seal. The headlight buckets need some modifications to truly "work." (Notice the clearance lights? ... mmm pretty!)



It isn't hard to pull the buckets once the lights are removed... you do not even need any tools. Grab and pull out on the bucket next to the spring, ...


Turn the bucket to release the top screw. (The slot is angled.) ...


Then pull the bucket inboard to release the side-to-side adjuster.


Un-hook the spring and it is done.


See how the inner lip of the bucket touches the light and doesn't have room for the seal.


I used the seal to mark where the lip need changed.


I also marked the city light location. (both bulbs out.)


I used my high tech metal bending tool... a crescent wrench. Bend a little at a time and go around a few times to prevent splitting of the metal.


half way...


Bent enough.


I like step drills for many projects.


Small hole drilled and checking for centering of the hole.


City light bulb installed.


H-4 bulbs are easy to change. ...


... It doesn't even take any tools.


The city light bulb will not clear the body behind the bucket. Marked the center...


Used a hole saw to cut... a hole.


I also trimmed the driver side stock headlight connector... just in case. I then sealed it up.

The lights do not look much different when done. While these are an improvement over the stock sealed beams, I believe headlights with better low beam patterns are available... most cost more than I am willing to pay. I'll be watching for better lights. (I might just install fog lights.)

This was done to #2 coach, spring 2011 and costs for this project was under $100.

The lights also came with higher wattage bulbs (normal low beam, extra high beam) but I have not installed them. I expect them to be more useful way out in the country on dark 2 lane roads. I might install them later.... time will tell.

Two gets a Headlight Relay Harness

Say what? Why?

A headlight relay harness. Even current vehicles come from the factory with poorly designed headlight wiring. The power is routed from the alternator/battery up behind the dash, through fuses and switches and THEN back up front to the headlights.

What is wrong with that?

Low voltage DC electricity (ie: 12volts) is very susceptible to voltage loss. Each connector, switch and foot of wire reduces the voltage at the end. (Remember the manufacturers accountants have their shot at the designs before the car was built. Do you think they put in BETTER switches and other parts than they had to?) We are also talking about a 33 year old motorhome... how good do you think those 70's connectors are today?

The voltage at the sealed beam headlights (also being replaced... the next project I will post) is only about 10.5 to 11.5 volts. (The charging system should be running over 13 volt to charge the battery(s).) This doesn't even let the sealed beams put out what little light they are capable of. While the best harness would be custom built for the exact application, from quality parts, I bought a pre-made harness. It was to short for the motorhome so I extended it. I also added a ground return wire (10 gauge) and two other auxiliary wires (fog and city lights).


It is ten feet from the far headlight plug (driver's side) to the ground wire, another 1.5 to the relays and a couple of feet to the passenger side headlight plug and control pick-up.



Relays, control pick-up and passenger side headlight plug.


Driver's side


Installed. Passenger side.


Installed. Power CB and ground points. Power comes from chassis side of the isolator. I could boost the voltage about 1/2 volt if I tapped from the center post of the alternator... but the headlights would go out if the engine stopped.


Installed. I followed the stock wiring harness across the coach.

Installed driver's side. (With the E-Code headlights.) Overall, much brighter. If something happens to the relays, the old harness and plugs are still there... just taped off.

Number 2 coach -- this project was about $100.

Pick-N-Pull Trip

The local Pick-N-Pull had a half off sale. So I spent a few days picking up parts for future projects. I picked up some of the items for trading stock. I hit the largest yard one day and two of the three other yards the next day.


Steering wheels, cruise control units, old GM wiper motor (for thermasan), Lumina wipers.


Later Chevy/GMC tail lights, height controllers (possible to be modified for EL2 replacements), a seat switch for our Audi.


Spare tire covers

The wheel I used, more Lumina wiper arms, speed sensors for cruise control.


While I like the DESIGN of the four spoke wheel, this single spoke FUNCTION is much better. It doesn't hide the gauges like the OEM. It also has a good place to mount the cruise control remote. (A future project that is on the list along with lowering the wheel.)

Note the Honda seats. I'll be posting pictures of that project soon.

The installed wheel cost about $7.00.

Recovery of Number 3 Coach -- part two

It took 3 days, but after reinstalling the instrument cluster, going through the wiring and disconnecting anything that I didn't need to get home. Tying up all the disconnected items, changing the oil (and just adding enough oil to ensure it was "full") Patching together the exhaust, Picked up a travel permit from DMV. Installed the carb from my 1973, charging up the old battery... I tried to start it.

The fuel pump was bad. The parts stores in town couldn't even order one for two days. Installed an electric pump. and by passed the mechanical. Installed the new Eagle wheels I brought from home with rubber bought in Moab.

Got the blinkers working and figured out why the headlights would not work. (The relays the PO added had corroded and needed replacement. Jury rigged the towd wiring and hit the road.

The PO let me stay in his house and even fed me breakfast and dinner each day. Thanks Larry!


Larry's former house.


It took me three days to get home, it ran fairly well for 120 miles then started getting symptoms of vapor lock or a bad ignition module. I also need to find relays for the headlights before dark. So I stopped at quite a few Auto parts stores in the Salt Lake area. I made it into Idaho and stopped a Wal-Mart. In the morning, in a pouring rain, I moved the fuel pump from up front (near the non-functional mechanical one) to next to the tank. I limped the coach... through the rain into Oregon. I pulled the filters and found them full of rust. Figuring the tanks had rusted while sitting for years, I bought a gas tank for and outboard boat motor. I also picked up one more fuel pump. the following pictures show how I drove the last day to get home.

6 gallons at 7 or 8 mpg doesn't give much range.








As I had disconnected all the house wiring, I used the house side of the isolator to power the fuel pump. As a safety feature... If the engine stops, there will be no alternator output... nothing will be applied across the isolator to power the pump. But I needed a way to prime the carb before starting... the boost solenoid was right there... already wired in!

You like my center console? A plastic slim line cooler and two new mufflers in boxes, all strapped to the dash. My netbook with GPS software helped me find gas stations and auto parts stores. The horn is activated by grounding the wire in the center of the wheel.


The air system leaked when I applied pressure. I did not trouble shoot. I just installed tank valves. (I had to use 1/8 inch with 1/4 inch adapters.)

This picture was taken the day after getting home. After I took the Eagle wheels and tires and installed them on my other Birchaven. We then left for the Treasure Island Rally.

Wife has gotten confused when I talk about the '73, the '78 or the '77. So the coaches are now called "one" (the 1973 26 foot exPainted Desert) "two (the 1978 23 foot rear bath Birchaven) and "three" (the 1977 23 foot Birchaven).

So... Three has landed. Now to get the title in my name.

Recovery of Number 3 Coach -- part one

If you have been reading my posts, you already know that I bought a "core" coach for my "2040" project. (I plan on rebuilding it with the idea that I'll still be using it in the year 2040. Do you know what kinds of fuel will be available then?)

I didn't take my own pictures when I got there. I also didn't take pictures during the three days it took to get it running. These are the pictures I was sent by the PO, Larry. (PO = Previous Owner)



The coach had been on blocks for several years. This picture shows two of the four tires bolted to the coach. (One was the spare.) The PO bought the coach in Texas, installed new tires and drove it to Utah. Where he took it apart to customize it. He never drove it again. The tires where so dry rotted, they could not be used.


The picture cuts off the blocks the coach is setting on. The only wheel on the driver's side is the rear most.


It has new waste tanks and a maceator (not connected electrically) that have never been used.


A home-made dinette. Nothing at all like the Coachman units.

PO built dash. I did not see much practicality in the design. No defroster vents. (Just a big hole on top of the dash.) No glovebox... just a hole to access the OEM fuse box. I DO like a flat top on the dash. Nice seats... wish I liked the color!


The steering wheel was only set on the shaft... no nut, no horn "guts." none of the dash instruments or switches were connected. The instrument cluster itself isn't attached to the dash in this picture.


New range and faucet, PO built cabinets. NO storage under the sink. No access to the furnace to service.


Pretty ceiling. Good thing it didn't rain much in Moab Utah... the roof wasn't checked for leaks before insulation and ceiling installation.



These are original miles... odometer has NOT been turned over. I understand this coach has spent a large chunk of it's life on blocks. (Like it currently is next to my house.)

Other issues.

-- The coach hadn't been started in 5 years.
-- While it had new down pipes and mufflers, it did not have a Y pipe connecting them to the tail pipe.
-- The oil dip stick tube is broken off near the block.
-- Many thing had been dissembled. Nothing marked.
-- Many new, never installed parts that may or may not be usable on this coach..

End of part one.