Suzzie "F" -- AC install

While the motor was out, installed an AC system from parts I had pulled from the junk yard over the years.

I am leaving the procedure in the order from the Suzuki AC install manual for others installing while the motor is in.

As I didn't start with a Suzuki Air Conditioning Install Kit, I did not have all the "little" parts... mostly plastic and rubber like parts that fell apart while picking the parts from the yard. 

My comments are in BLUE.

First collect the parts:
-- Cooling unit (evaporator)
-- Interior Harness
-- Amplifier
-- Control switch and harness
-- Engine bay AC Harness
-- Condenser Fan Compressor Clutch Harness
-- Water temperature switch
-- Receiver bracket
-- Compressor with brackets/bolts
-- New (longer) Drive belt
-- Suction Tube
-- Suction Hose
-- Discharge Hose 
-- Liquid Tube (condenser/receiver)
-- Liquid Tube (receiver/cooling unit)
-- Condenser
-- Condenser fan
-- Something to use as side seals and foam packing seal around radiator

Other things to collect:
AC service gauges
A vacuum pump
AC flush kit (if needed)
New receiver (drier/accumulator)
New O-rings
O-ring lube (You can use PAG oil, but there are better sealing solutions)
PAG 46  Oil (100ml)
--
If not new parts, clean and flush with proper solvent.
Blow dry with clean dry air.

This is my "Flush Kit."

--
Remove Glove box
Remove Air duct (discard)

air duct removed

You might want to clean out the heater

This was BEFORE I vacuumed out the heater box

Remove Blower Assembly
Cut out template of silencer pad (not needed on 1994)
Remove caps from firewall (Suction Line, Liquid Tube, Drain Hose)
Temporarily connect cooling unit band to heater unit. Ensure screw head is down.
Install drain hose to cooling unit
Install cooling unit to firewall. Fasten with two bolts (interior) and one nut (engine bay)
Loosen and move cooling unit band over cooling unit/heater unit connection
Tighten the band
Install the grommets for the cooling unit tubes and hoses

Connect 10 pin connector to vehicle harness connector
Connect 2 pin connector to the thermistor
Connect 12 pin connector to the amplifier
Connect 3 pin connector to the A/C switch (w/lever controls only)
Cut out cap in heater control, install AC switch (w/lever controls only)
Remove cover in heater control, install AC switch knob (w/button controls only)

Note: 

There are two major kinds of wiring harnesses.  

The earlier (up to 1995) has an in-line fuse and the on/off switch attaches 

to the harness.

The later Harness (96 and up) has only three connectors and no fuse. 

Secure the thermistor harness with the A/C harness using a plastic tie.
Secure the A/C harness clip to the harness bolt.

Reinstall Blower Assembly
Reinstall  Glove box
--
Remove Headlight covers (Sport)
Remove Front Grille
Remove Bumper
Remove Horn
Remove Air Cleaner and duct (if on right side)
Remove Battery
Remove Evap Canister
Remove Washer Tank  (if on right side)
Remove Cruise Control  (if on right side)
Remove Radiator Overflow tank  (if on right side)
Remove Drive belt (P/S belt on 1.6l) & discard
--
Install Compressor        J18, M8 bolts, torque 18.1 ft/lbs

Ensure the compressor is filled with the proper amount and type 

compressor oil.  My research says ND-Oil 8 is PAG 46.  

The manual says the system should have 100ml.

Install New Drive belt (P/S belt on 1.6l)

The lower bracket bolts to the power steering bracket

With AC compressor installed, the power steering pump uses the "fixed" lower bolt position

 See the bolt hidden in the pump pulley?

 

The problem is these nice blue bracket I collected where the wrong size.  I THINK they are for an early R-12compressor.

Complete "test fit" with the proper AC compressor brackets 

and a spare PS pump. 

Install the side seals on sides of radiator
bottom right use original bolt on tubing clamp (J18)
Fasten ( R ) Side Seal to Radiator support  using a bolt

This is what I came up with for the side seal.  (x2) 

It is to keep hot air from inside the engine compartment from going back around and back though the condenser and radiator.  

I cut holes for the headlights and blinkers

 

I installed the tubes, covered with foam and zip tied to the body.  Other parts are being test fitted.

Fasten Receiver bracket and ( R ) Side Seal to Radiator support  using a bolt, but do not tighten.
Fasten ( R ) Side Seal to Body using two plastic pins
bottom left use original bolt on tubing clamp (J18)
Fasten ( L ) Side Seal to Radiator support  using two bolts
Fasten Discharge Hose Clamp Bracket (J18) and ( L ) Side Seal to Radiator support  using a bolt, but do not tighten.
--
Fasten ( L ) Side Seal to Body using two plastic pins
Install Relays to Discharge Hose Clamp Bracket (J18)
Insert the condenser from the bottom side up.
Fasten the condenser to radiator supports with 4 bolts.

 I installed the condenser and fan after the motor was in but before the radiator.  I could not install it from below as the towing brackets (another post) were in the way.

Loosely install Receiver to receiver bracket
Connect Liquid Tube between the receiver and the condenser with 2 bolts        torque to 4.0 ft lbs (receiver)
        torque to 7.2 ft lbs (condenser)
Install condenser fan to the condenser with 4 bolts (M6)
Install suction tube clamp bracket to ( R ) radiator support with original bolt and plastic bolt to side seal.
Install suction tube clamp bracket to ( L ) radiator support with original bolt and plastic bolt to side seal.        J18?
Install Liquid tube between receiver and cooling unit        torque to 4.0 ft lbs (receiver)
Route the suction tube from cooling unit to left side of radiator.
Connect the suction and liquid tubes to the cooling unit.
Fasten tubes to body with clamps
Connect the discharge hose between the compressor and the condenser inlet fitting with two bolts        torque to 7.2 ft lbs
Connect the suction hose between the compressor and the suction tube        torque to 7.2 ft lbs
Fasten the discharge hose to the bracket using a clamp and a bolt.
Fasten the suction hose to the bracket using a clamp and a bolt.
Fasten the suction tube to the bracket using a clamp and a bolt.
Remove original bolt (plug) from thermostat/water housing and discard.
Install water temperature switch to the thermostat/water housing     torque to 8.7 ft lbs
Clean above radiator with IPA and install label
Install foam packing seal to top of radiator

 

My "foam packing seal" that has the same function as the sides shields.  I might need to zip tie in place... but may not need it.

Route the A/C harness along the vehicle wire harness
Fasten the A/C harness to the vehicle wire harness with original clamps and tyes.
Connect the A/C harness to power at fuse box.
Connect the A/C harness to original harness (control)
Connect the A/C harness to pressure switch at receiver
Connect the A/C harness to condenser fan
Connect the A/C harness to compressor clutch
Connect the A/C harness to relays (by battery (1.6) or left radiator support (1.8)
Connect the A/C harness to body ground
Connect the A/C harness to water temperature switch

I connected AC power, with a 25 amp fuse, to the alternator side of the main fuse rather than the positive terminal of the battery.  I dislike extra connections right at the battery.  I also found I do not have the correct engine (over) temperature switch. Grounding the wire allows the system to work until I get the proper switch.

--
Inspect the install for parts install and fastening
Inspect the install for pinched electrical harness
Inspect the install for pinched, bent or constricted hoses and tubes
Inspect the install for safety gaps
--
Reinstall Radiator Overflow tank (if removed)
Reinstall Cruise Control (if removed)
Reinstall Washer Tank (if removed)
Reinstall Evap Canister
Reinstall Battery
Reinstall Air Cleaner and duct (if removed)
Reinstall Horn
--
Pull vacuum   (Sorry no pictures)
Check for leaks
Charge system – J18, HFC-134a standard charge 1.32 to 1.43 lbs (600 to 650g)

 

I charged the system with HC-12a.  My calculations said I should have needed almost two cans for proper operation.  (1.375lbs = 22oz HFC-134a) or 1.57cans/9.43oz HC-12a 

But I had higher pressure than a normally operating HC-12a system at just above idle. (28lbs) So I only installed a single can.

--
Inspect the install.  There should be _NO_ abnormal sounds during operation
Inspect the install.  On/off compressor clutch
Inspect the install. Blower motor speed changes
Inspect the install. Air inlet (rec/fresh) change with lever
Inspect the install. Air outlet change with lever
Inspect the install. Temperature (hot/cold adjustment)
--
Reinstall headlight covers
Reinstall Bumper
Reinstall Front Grille

Works Good.

Suzzie "F" -- Body Work Around Grille

I also didn't get pictures of pushing the structure behind the grille back into place.  I used a jack and 2x4 blocking to spread the forces across the firewall and other parts in the engine bay.
 

Once in place I treated the rust, primed and painted the parts.

Spray can gloss white matches fairly good with the body color.  I didn't really do all the body work, (see the right front fender) but I am mostly covering bare metal and getting to look "OK".

You might also notice the Air Conditioner parts installed.  I am also installing an AC system from collected junkyard parts.  More on it later.

Suzzie "F" -- Engine Pull

I didn't take pictures of the actual pulling of the motor.

I do have some that I would like to share.

This is after the pull, but before a pressure wash.

The old dirty oily motor on the home made stand.

  

The stands are made from two 14 inch lengths of 2x8 to 2x4's and eight Kreg  screws in pockets drilled with a Kreg jig.  Simple, quick to make and works well.  I mail order the screws in large boxes.  VERY cheap.

I have told others about an easy way to disconnect the engine wiring.  The engine harness is connected by two plugs at the firewall.  I pull back the rubber grommet, pull the plugs out into the engine bay and disconnect.  

The harness can be left on the motor with the above connections still connected. You still would need to disconnect what ever plugs go to the transmission as the harness should be called the "Power Train Harness."   I removed the harness to clean and modify it.  That will be covered in a later post.

Suzzie "F" -- Compression check

As it is new to me and it is blowing steam (Visible on start-up but much less so when hot) I needed to do a compression check.

The spark plugs where covered in oil from a leaking valve cover gasket.
These are in order  #1,2,3,4.  Tip on #1 is browner than the others.

I do not have pictures of the actual test, but the results surprised me at:  215, 220, 205, and 230 psi COLD.  I suspect these could be considered as WET from the oil leaks of the valve cover.  Still really good compression so I do not think the head gasket is bad.  (The seller said that was the problem.)  I disconnected and plugged the coolant lines going to/from the intake and still got the steam out the tail pipe.  There is a bigger problem inside the motor.  I'll pull it and install the JDM motor from Kick 3... it has a bad transmission anyway.

The exhaust manifold is cracked in the typical place.  (See small red arrow.) 

Getting ready for the motor pull.

Suzzie "F" (my 6th Sidekick)

I got it home a while back, but I am very behind on documenting my projects.

The Grille had been knocked out by a truck.  There was some damage other than just the grille.  Overall, it is certainly not perfect, but fixable without resorting to professional help.

 

Took me a bit to ID these wheels.  Low end two door Tracker from about 2000.  Cleaned up, they might be OK looking.  They ARE a five spoke design.  (Normally what I prefer.)

 Clunky looking 2 inch receiver hitch welded under the 1.25 inch.  The "stinger" seems rusted in place and can not be removed.  Leaving it in when not towing is asking for frame damage from a otherwise "minor" accident.

Dirty and oily.

The power steering doesn't work... missing the belt.  Look closely at the shroud.  Seems there was a problem.

Found what was left of the belt.

Missing the bolts that held the shroud to the radiator.  If it was also missing the lower ones, it would account for the shroud damage and the belt being missing.
-- I later replaced the belt, and the power steering worked fine.

 The half tire cover needs to go away.  If I had the other half... maybe I'd keep it.

Look closely, this tire was manufactured in the 48th week of 1993.  A bit over the life expectancy of a tire.  No checking, but not something that should be in service.

The interior isn't ripped up, just dirty and stained.  Plus quite a few stickers.

Moved the 2 door tin top project out of the garage, and got this one inside.  Charging the battery to ensure a good compression check tomorrow.

Another Kick In The Stable!

The other day I get a call from my son. Seems the '92 is having transmission problems.  I drove to the other side of Portland to find him without third gear.  It would go to about 25 to 30 mph then act like it was kicked into neutral.

While I had all I needed to tow it home (it is set up to tow four down) I really didn't want to pull it with the Malibu.  (There just isn't enough weight difference between the two for safe towing in traffic.)  I had the GPS pick out a route with 45mph max speeds and drove it home, on back roads, holding it in second gear.

35 mph most of the way.

The '92 has an OK body with ugly paint.  Being a North West (US) car it has very little rust.  Interior is a bit ratty.  The motor is great as it is a JDM motor installed less than two years ago.

Looking for a replacement transmission, I found this on Craigslist:

I looked at it and it didn't look to bad.  1994 Sidekick JLX with most of the options other than AC.  (I should be able to add that.)  It also has auto hubs that need to be tossed. 

On a test drive it ran pretty good but blew steam when warm.  No water/antifreeze in the oil.  Someone welded a 2 inch receiver under a 1.25 hitch.  Looks functional but clunky.  Needs a grille and some minor work on the bumper cover.  The body looks like it could clean up fairly good... the interior might take more work.  There are some monster stickers on some interior parts.  Stereo looks good... not that it makes that much difference for me.

As I understand it was the owners first car, it looks amazingly good.  Most teenagers trash their first car before learning how to take care of a car.  (His second car is a 2015 Jeep that he bought and paid for by himself.)

Anyway, paid less than the asking price and drove it home.  When I get the two door project out of the garage, I'll roll this one in to truly evaluate it.

My current plans are to take what I need from the '92 and fix this one.  The use the other "92" parts to upgrade a chassis for the two door project.  (Maybe 16v and 4 speed auto?)  Then I'll need to sell off most of my "Kick stable" for a move to the south west.