tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-259824016926316352024-03-05T06:31:40.949-08:00Mike's ProjectsMikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.comBlogger71125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-57309076363680464192016-11-26T11:19:00.001-08:002016-11-26T11:19:44.181-08:00T3 timing marks, G16 8v (T3 part 8) ---------------------------------------- timing marks<br />
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This
is the "best" picture I have of a cam timing belt sprocket. Note the
two marks. 60A (in the yellow section) is the one for G16 motors. Then
about 4:30 is an "80C". I have been told this is for a twin cam
motor. But you can see how it can be improperly installed, making the
"80C" the "correct" mark.<br />
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Why
the odd colors? I do not have a picture of the completed paint job,
but it now has yellow and black at the #4 position and a blue/white at
the #1 position. I painted the sprocket so I could check the timing with
the cover still on. Here it is sitting at TDC #1 ready to fire. (Positioned to install the distributor.)<br />
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This next picture is one of several reasons why:<br />
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If
you look closely you will notice the small notch for TDC is no longer
lined up with the key-way slot on the crank. The outer ring has shifted
a few degrees from the center, making the timing mark inaccurate. This is the only Suzuki harmonic balancer I have seen that has shifted. I have seen some older, 70's GM balancers almost 180 degrees out! <br />
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-82790151818981577442016-11-02T00:46:00.001-07:002016-11-02T00:50:32.545-07:00T3 motor seals, G16 8v (T3 part 7)This motor and transmission were covered in oil and grime. As this motor was out and stripped down to the short block, I could not see NOT changing the seals.<br />
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As the subject of seals often comes up in the forum, I separated it from the engine post. <br />
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This is the method I used:<br />
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Drill or otherwise poke a hole in the seal. I have hammered a nail into seals in the past.<br />
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Pry out the seal attempting to keep from damaging the surrounding area. <br />
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Clean (shown vacuuming) any bits and pieces from the old seal (drilling makes some) and ensure the mating surface is ready for the new seal. <br />
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Collect the tools needed to install the seals. I just pulled out the tool kit I collected when the dealers closed. ( I bought several incomplete sets off eBay to make one complete set.)<br />
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This is an incomplete set but it has the tools for this job. The manual is invaluable to select the proper tool. <br />
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The blue cone is the rear main seal tool, The block cone and bolt are for both front seals the small black sleeve is to protect the seal during the front crank seal install. <br />
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A trick from the low range off road instructional videos, wet the seal by dropping in water.<br />
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Place it in line with the hole, and drive it in with the tool. With the water "lubing" the edge of the seal, I really did not need the mallet. But I still smacked it a few times. <br />
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Most seals are properly installed when the edge is flush with the surrounding area.<br />
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You do not NEED the proper tool to install seals but they help to set the seal at the correct depth without over driving the seal to deep and possibly beyond the point it can keep the case sealed. (Both the heads I am working with on this project had seals driven too deep.) People normally use a appropriate sized socket or pipe to drive the seal into place. (I have even installed the larger rear seal on a J18 motor with a couple of PVC pipes and a block of wood.) Seal installation without the proper tools, using the "water trick", it should be fairly easy to do and ... to over do. Be careful as you drive the seals in.<br />
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This is a rear seal driven in to the proper depth.<br />
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Lube the rotating part with some type of lube. I used grease. <br />
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It wasn't hard to slip the seal over the end of the greased crank and bolt the seal carrier in place. OBTW: The old seal was very brittle and hard, but it was in one piece. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9USvARABtL3nV24DECSuCnTjCtiRamRUfqdxrk0vhCzLoJEZcoATLCRqiX3yMaT1umod8WHXckGOy6ybdGAv7Fyq9P50RCFYswRQfflnFRdI27lR8ORihVHUv-Ufo_a3v7U1a2Lcs-XI/s1600/Seal_43.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9USvARABtL3nV24DECSuCnTjCtiRamRUfqdxrk0vhCzLoJEZcoATLCRqiX3yMaT1umod8WHXckGOy6ybdGAv7Fyq9P50RCFYswRQfflnFRdI27lR8ORihVHUv-Ufo_a3v7U1a2Lcs-XI/s320/Seal_43.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Below I am greasing the sleeve and the crank for the front seal install. If you do not have a sleeve, there is a trick of making a sleeve out of slick plastic electrical tape. You wrap the crank snout with tape so it kind of looks like the sleeve in the picture below. Grease it up and continue. I have installed them in the past with tape, grease and a socket. <br />
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Soaking the seal. <br />
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Place the seal and install the tool...<br />
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Tighten down and the seal is in place. The tool keeps the seal from being "over driven."<br />
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Perfect! <br />
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I followed the same procedure for the cam seal. No sleeve needed.<br />
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<br />
OBTW the exact same seal is used for both the front crank and
the cam. Both front and cam seals were fairly new and really did not
need changed.... other than the cam seal have been set too deep.<br />
Yes, you can do this without the fancy tools, but the water trick and the proper tools make it simple. <br />
<br />
Now back to the engine post....<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="color: red;">BE SURE TO TORQUE THE LARGE CRANK BOLT TO THE PROPER SPECS.... IT IS 94 ft/lbs for the G16 motors. Too low of torque has been known to lead to damaged crank key-ways. </span></h2>
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-9653631785309459892016-10-28T22:42:00.003-07:002016-11-10T22:12:38.097-08:00T3 Body Metal Issues (T3 part 6)There are a few problems with the body on this 1993 2 door TinTop Tracker.<br />
<br />
Besides the "normal" dents and stuff (no real rust) <br />
<br />
1. Somehow the hood came unlatched and damaged the hood, the windshield and the area around the passenger side wiper pivot and both wipers.<br />
<br />
2. The driver's door was over extended, damaging the fender (swapped out with a used one already) and ripped the door stop mount from the door sill.<br />
<br />
When I pulled the head, I noticed I had much better access to the cowl area. So figured it would be a good time to fix the wipers.<br />
<br />
Before<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYND7kgikZ1PzBgpgTqwl0hZrSz9jh25IbWTKBSu476ir8k8cjzsgjViXyfo-DyHc-qGMXdEtjLjNSbDpUSL_1sixWsOBI9l_nAWBr2IQ1aiabR0x6B4zr3Q6b_zoVE0fJzj_Hg1J5ji0/s1600/w001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYND7kgikZ1PzBgpgTqwl0hZrSz9jh25IbWTKBSu476ir8k8cjzsgjViXyfo-DyHc-qGMXdEtjLjNSbDpUSL_1sixWsOBI9l_nAWBr2IQ1aiabR0x6B4zr3Q6b_zoVE0fJzj_Hg1J5ji0/s400/w001.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Wiper linkage/assembly removed. <br />
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Trying to find "good" metal, found cracks in the metal quite a way from the mounting point. Cutting out the bad section.<br />
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I cut a larger part from the damaged body of my parts car. Test fitting.<br />
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<br />
Treat and prime the area. I am a poor welder at best, so I am going to go with structural adhesive and pop rivets. Looks are not that big of a deal as it is covered by the plastic cowling anyway.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtaDTsI1UA-fOuLbrDogKGfuWpjIUcZUWhAdi4tA_DF1NF1xhXjflc2rUw0MoMxlWkFrXjdeIsOUWPCzpBRTB4rIEDLwC8Q57Oi_Qf0xIOmJkzg7g15AqG_lfSjss1fF4PF2mB3nx1Qkc/s1600/w009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtaDTsI1UA-fOuLbrDogKGfuWpjIUcZUWhAdi4tA_DF1NF1xhXjflc2rUw0MoMxlWkFrXjdeIsOUWPCzpBRTB4rIEDLwC8Q57Oi_Qf0xIOmJkzg7g15AqG_lfSjss1fF4PF2mB3nx1Qkc/s320/w009.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is a test fit after priming with the wiper system installed. <br />
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The adhesive I used was left over from a motohome panel repair. Most of the tube had hardened so I had to poke a hole in the side to get usable adhesive. I already tossed the leftovers, so no pictures.<br />
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The adhesive (3M) is a permanent bond with a little bit of flex, and it is used in aircraft, aerospace and marine construction and repair. They say it is paint-able and actually holds the paint. (Unlike other paint-able adhesives/sealers.) But being black on a black car... not an issue.<br />
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Here it is after pop-riveting into place. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0g6m0RjsaSOOxMa4FpyRU7kQKQMwNNUflue1fAOGStdB4wsQph22X4GZfqCrNUqa_d7FfR6f4TUbC6VVKN0Y_L6hgxvvEh0JT6uimRhbj5G0n8U0FSt9czUxMkhwwMlMv9BsUJeRGcFg/s1600/w015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0g6m0RjsaSOOxMa4FpyRU7kQKQMwNNUflue1fAOGStdB4wsQph22X4GZfqCrNUqa_d7FfR6f4TUbC6VVKN0Y_L6hgxvvEh0JT6uimRhbj5G0n8U0FSt9czUxMkhwwMlMv9BsUJeRGcFg/s320/w015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The rivets are more to hold it in place during cure... it took several days to fully set up.<br />
<br />
This is pretty much done until I get T3 farther back together.<br />
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-------------------------<br />
<br />
Now for the door stop mount.<br />
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The problem: <br />
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I noticed this in my scrap pile. It came from a pop-up canopy that have been getting popular lately. This was from one just a step or so above the cheapest quality. The hole is in the right place, the tube is the right size and shape. The gauge is a little lighter than I would like. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbKyKk9zGuK_gZG3cjr0cSzjnF0Wpnho89bq16kxgoYSgpK39_x1eVyYH__MNhRKPXFWKoZcpq6FNlpoRZQy6w70KCsYKd5dJ1EHX2itx_lwPMfxetu-GDUFIxE8hzeouLHmbmDrSPpK4/s1600/d004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbKyKk9zGuK_gZG3cjr0cSzjnF0Wpnho89bq16kxgoYSgpK39_x1eVyYH__MNhRKPXFWKoZcpq6FNlpoRZQy6w70KCsYKd5dJ1EHX2itx_lwPMfxetu-GDUFIxE8hzeouLHmbmDrSPpK4/s320/d004.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I ground down the plastic end cap and drove the solid plug into the tube thinking it would provide support when clamping during my manipulation. <br />
<br />
Some work with a grinder made the correct shape and the slot needed for the linkage to the door.<br />
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I drilled a hole to be a crack stop as I split the tube.<br />
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Carefully sawing split the tube.<br />
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<br />
Unfortunity, the metal cracked as it was split. I do not think this metal will do the job as needed.<br />
But I will finish it (some) to see if I get ideas for the real repair. <br />
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Both legs pread <br />
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Slipping it into the body. <br />
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<br />
Set in place. I would put something in the slot to wedge onto holding it in place while drilling and pop riveting. To bad the metal is so brittle.<br />
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Ideas? Heat? something from home depot (brackets/conduit tube) ??<br />
<br />
--- thinking now, while I work on something else. --<br />
<br />
--- update 11/1/16 ----<br />
<br />
Stopped by home depot and found some interesting little straps.<br />
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<br />
clamped them to a scrap computer case and heated the metal. <br />
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<br />
a few taps with a hammer and I have something to try. <br />
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<br />
A quick test shows these MIGHT have a little too much protrusion from the door sill. It might keep the door from closing. Maybe it would not be a bad thing to do some actual measurements ?? !<br />
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--- <br />
11/10/2016 (Marine Corps Birthday!) Update<br />
<br />
Yes, I trimmed back the brackets a little and hit the exposed sections with primer.<br />
<br />
I had planned on using pop-rivets, but I couldn't find any large enough. Looking in the hardware store I found some 5mm U nuts. <br />
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I drilled some holes into the door jam and positioned the plate. Note the wire attached to the plate. I had dropped it before and it took me about 4 hours work spread over several days to get back out!<br />
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After getting both plates installed and bolted down. If I had known I was using U nuts rather than pop rivets, I would have left the bracket longer... <br />
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... as now it is almost to short! The original hole was better also.<br />
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But the important thing is.... It is done!<br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-11866266201633314822016-10-27T22:18:00.000-07:002016-10-27T22:25:12.530-07:00T3 5 speed transmission and transfer case (T3 part 5)T3 5 speed transmission and transfer case (T3 part 5)<br />
<br />
I drove this thing home. I even test drove it before I bought it. I THOUGHT the 4x4 worked, but I really did not do much in the time I had.<br />
<br />
Anyway the transfer case has a problem with the front output. The driveshaft is stuck in it and it will not rotate. Putting it in any 4x4 position, has no effect.<br />
<br />
I suspect the chain is toast and this whole thing needs redone.<br />
<br />
Separating the T-Case from the transmission, I found a quart or so of lube in the space between them. That should be a dry space.<br />
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Here is what was in there:<br />
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The missing seal was loose in the same space. Both seals had been held it by RTV. The lube had a strong sulfur odor... something I associate with "non-yellow metal safe" GL5 lube, that should NOT be used in either the T case or Transmissions. While it is good for the gear design in the differentials, it is bad for the brass parts found in the center of the car. (Use GL4 only there.)<br />
<br />
Something tells be that this transmission has been "rebuilt" and now needs gone into ... again .... just to see if everything is OK.<br />
<br />
Looking on my "spare" shelf I see this transmission:<br />
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It is a JDM 1998 5 speed transmission I bought a while back for a project that went another direction. From what I understand, the only difference are the output splines on the transfer case. If I could find the correct drive shafts, it would work.... but that is also one of the reasons that project changed directions.<br />
<br />
Hold on... Right next to it, is the 3 speed auto with T case, that came with a 1989 basket case project. Looks like it will fit. Drive shaft splines are the same as the 1993. <br />
<br />
Here it is separated from the transmission:<br />
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Next step here is to clean it up and inspect both this T case and the '98 trans.<br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-25620407638456341232016-10-26T22:44:00.000-07:002016-11-26T11:58:45.067-08:00T3 motor G16 8v motor (T3 part 4)I separated the transfer case, transmission, clutch and motor.<br />
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Each has "issues" and each will get it's own thread. This is the motor post.<br />
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Issues:<br />
<br />
-- running on three cylinders due to bad exhaust valve.<br />
<br />
-- cracked exhaust manifold... in three places.<br />
<br />
-- leaking seals and gaskets.<br />
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-- very dirty, oily and greasy. <br />
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these all will be addressed. This picture shows the bad valve.<br />
(top valve, first cylinder, from about 12:30 to 3:00 on the valve.)<br />
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This is the "good" head from T2 sitting on my "spares" shelf.<br />
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I tacked the old head on the block and pressure washed it. Now with the head removed again.<br />
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using wd40 to clean the carbon and gasket residue from the block,<br />
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most of the way done, oil pan removed. <br />
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The rear seal is out and the timing cog has been removed from the crank. The front will be coming out tomorrow. I might need to take the block off the stand to ensure I get the rear seal installed correctly.<br />
<br />
-- next day --<br />
noticed something under the timing belt cog... while the cog appeared to be positioned correctly, the keyway is damaged.<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
It is not as bad as some I have seen. It at least has a SMALL notch that will keep the key in position, AS LONG AS THE COG IS FULLY ON THE CRANK. but it would not take much to really mess up the timing. I am thinking of a way to correct it.<br />
<br />
update 10/28/2016 --------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
Ok, here is the plan:<br />
<br />
1. Fill the space with JB Weld.<br />
<br />
2. Grease the key and wipe of the excess. This should act as a release agent.<br />
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3. Press it into the key way.<br />
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4. Clean it up and hold it in place with vice grips.<br />
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5. wait 24 hours or so.<br />
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6. pry out the key.<br />
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<br />
7. Clean it up, test fit the timing cog.<br />
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<br />
Note: while cleaning up and smoothing down the JB Weld, it cracked. I put a few drops of super glue on the crack.<br />
<br />
But it seems pretty good. While I haven't tried it with the key, the cog fits over the crank. I will replace the seal before putting it all back together.<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
-- update 11/1/16 --<br />
<br />
after the seals were installed, (see another post on it) It took a bit of manipulation to get the key in the keyway with the cog installed.<br />
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<br />
Blue locktite on the threads <br />
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<br />
set to 94 ft/lbs<br />
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<br />
locked the crank with two bolts in the flywheel bolt holes and a long pry bar across the engine stand supports.<br />
<br />
Now the day is nice, so I will be doing the stuff best done outside.... cleaning and painting.<br />
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<br />
<br />I missed taking pictures of some things. but here are pictures I have:<br />
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<br />
Head from T2 almost cleaned up enough to install. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMXsnxeWk6rNhHnnh_ams273yqWw9K-5VIe6or1q73NxiXGzxtUWTuGXZ6axEphfBy9OzFo4xEtq9YK0Bf4KZWSbshLJpSkCb0QxVpi0m0TVu2r4DWmtKI7NanS1eY6EGh0udEiUzSGRk/s1600/eng053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMXsnxeWk6rNhHnnh_ams273yqWw9K-5VIe6or1q73NxiXGzxtUWTuGXZ6axEphfBy9OzFo4xEtq9YK0Bf4KZWSbshLJpSkCb0QxVpi0m0TVu2r4DWmtKI7NanS1eY6EGh0udEiUzSGRk/s320/eng053.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
As I did not refinish the head or the block, this seemed a good idea. <br />
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<br />
I decided I did not like the cork gasket I received, I went with the factory RTV only. <br />
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<br />
Letting it cure before the final torquing of the pan bolts. <br />
<br />
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<br />
Getting close to done. Brand new aftermarket exhaust manifold. <br />
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<br />
Close to all I can do while on the engine stand.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-36679270040142722442016-10-26T15:24:00.001-07:002016-10-28T23:40:32.204-07:00T3 ECU Caps. (T3 part 3)From all my reading I "know" the OEM Rubycon, high failure rate caps should be replaced. I opened my ECU. It looked to be original and unmolested. There were three Rubycon caps, two black and one blue.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoxrsb4HRZIX2YYx1bMT4XeDcvxd0aNnltr9e-o1CCFh075Cv6zYr5aOIlkgWJgV2z60aLk5bamztGoxec-5qys7lWQ88Wm8FaBXZiu7nyXfJQCIPCEZ0kv-esxzl39HvRItzjHHtSsM/s1600/ecu_001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoxrsb4HRZIX2YYx1bMT4XeDcvxd0aNnltr9e-o1CCFh075Cv6zYr5aOIlkgWJgV2z60aLk5bamztGoxec-5qys7lWQ88Wm8FaBXZiu7nyXfJQCIPCEZ0kv-esxzl39HvRItzjHHtSsM/s320/ecu_001.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
I ordered replacement caps but kept reading.<br />
<br />
In my reading, I came across a note that there are UPDATED Rubycon caps with an X or K on the top. They seem to say these Caps are fine. <br />
<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggyTc8EGwXpHSeyuuP86rhXwp-r5-XkysON6J4fPQ3t2DrXSDoVvInjHZ-qFLFDh1SB94rd16MtZPKdDEqqWE2guykGS6251ydFE2HrEfbKTymftDcmtzEgSs2o6gFaJCJdymVtmvUwlk/s1600/ecu_004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggyTc8EGwXpHSeyuuP86rhXwp-r5-XkysON6J4fPQ3t2DrXSDoVvInjHZ-qFLFDh1SB94rd16MtZPKdDEqqWE2guykGS6251ydFE2HrEfbKTymftDcmtzEgSs2o6gFaJCJdymVtmvUwlk/s320/ecu_004.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I am going to ask on the forum.<br />
<br />
Stay tuned.<br />
<br />
---- update 10/28/2016 ----<br />
<br />
Advice from the forum: <br />
<br />
"Even with updated caps, any electrolytic capacitor has a finite
lifespan. As these are 20+ years old, they are due for replacement. I
replace them in any new-to-me Sidekick/Tracker immediately, because I
like to fix things on my terms rather than have a failure on a trail far
from home.
"<br />
<br />
Thanks for the advice, I already have caps ordered, I need to practice up my soldering skills. I haven't done PCB repairs in quite some time.... maybe 25 years?<br />
<br />
-----------<br />
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-64904951829569526562016-10-26T15:09:00.002-07:002016-11-24T13:09:59.590-08:00T3 engine and drive train removal (T3 part 2)More inspection of the drive train on T3 shows even more issues.<br />
<br />
The front drive shaft would not rotate. The drive train was VERY greasy so it could use new gaskets and seals. The clutch inspection plate is missing and it is very greasy and dirty in that area.<br />
<br />
It needs to come out to do this right.<br />
<br />
Draining the transfer case brought up another issue... there was no lube and not only would the front drive shaft would not rotate, it would not come out either. I had to pull the drive train with the drive shaft wired up.<br />
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<br />
Missing clutch inspection plate. <br />
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<br />
Pressure washed the engine bay and the underside.<br />
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Also pressure washed the engine/transmission.<br />
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more on separate posts.<br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-33847784261092908872016-10-26T14:56:00.000-07:002016-10-26T23:29:00.851-07:00My Third Tracker (AKA "T3") Intro (part 1 of many)I am behind on documenting my projects.<br />
<br />
When I bought my #2 and #3 Trackers as a package deal, I was more interested in the white 1994 Tracker "T2". The plan was to do a quick "fix" of the Black 1993 "T3" and sell it off to finance the higher quality rebuild on T2.<br />
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White Tracker on the trailer is "T2" <br />
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The black Tracker is "T3" as bought.<br />
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The more I looked at both of them, the harder T2 looks to fix properly. I am starting with T3 while I think about how to attack T2.<br />
<br />
While T3 ran and drove, I even drove it home but it ran very poorly. While I have been doing little things to T3. Changed the left front fender, left outside door handle the door panels and the grille, but I do not have pictures of these "small things."<br />
<br />
But it pretty much sat for 6 months before I ran a compression check. I ended up with ZERO in #1 and around 150 in #2,3,4. (cold). I used an inspection camera to see the top of the piston... it looked OK, but the mirror to look at the valves would not fit so I could not see the valves.<br />
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I pulled the head and found this:<br />
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<br />
Burnt exhaust valve in #1 cylinder.<br />
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Knowing it would be a while before the other Tracker needed a head, (I was told it has a rod knock) I did a compression check on T2. It was good in #1,2,3 but #4 had messed up threads for the spark plug... I could not get a good reading. Figuring it was good enough, I pulled the head, cleaned it up and fixed the threads in the spark plug holes.<br />
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Almost ready for use. It still needs a new front seal and O-rings for the distributor.<br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-59258287178785939912016-08-03T20:29:00.001-07:002019-12-11T10:12:46.005-08:00A few pictures for the TracKick forumPictures for the TracKick forum. Seems I accidentally deleted a few pictures.<br />
<br />
--- resetting airbag warning light ---<br />
<br />
For more information on your specific vehicle, please visit the website : <a href="http://codes.rennacs.com/" target="_blank">codes.rennacs.com</a> <br />
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<br />
---- temp warning system ----<br />
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<br />
---- OBD2 bluetooth scanner ----<br />
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<br />
----------- Roof Rack ----------------------<br />
My 1992 when I bought it had a roof rack<br />
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I did not need it and it made quite a bit of wind noise. <br />
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The six feet were not very strong <br />
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Each foot was screwed to the pinch weld with one or two screws. I know there wasn't more than ten little screws.<br />
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another pic for the forum, this is a valve cover on a Suzuki Swift. I would like to know if it will work on a G16 8v motor.<br />
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here is the current cover. (head and intake removed from the motor.)<br />
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<br />
----------- 11/1/2018 added info:<br />
<br />
Here is a picture of when I added a IAT sensor to my 1992 Sidekick to
make the 1994 ECU happy. The red arrow at the bottom is where I
drilled a hole in the air filter case for the probe. The green arrow
points to the green speaker wire routed to the ECU. (I need to find the
pin numbers) If I did this again, I would be sure and follow the same
harness as the other wires going to the ECU... just in case I needed to
pull the harness in the future.<br />
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<br />
I haven't found the pictures for CODE 51 due to not having a EGR temp probe (EGRT), But from a post on the forum in 2013 and it from memory:<br />
<br />
<span style="color: blue;">"My 1992 four door Sidekick came to me with a computer labelled:
33920-58B00. Near as I figure it should have been a 33920-58B40. (That
is what I had been looking for.)</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: blue;">Nether the engine that was in the car, (not original) or the JDM motor I
replaced it with had a EGR temp probe (EGRT), but had the wiring.
(The plug is on top the motor near the rear.... right above the EGR
valve.)</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: blue;">After I had installed the JDM motor, with its WORKING EGR valve, I could
reset the code 51, but it would return after about 5 minutes of
DRIVING. It didn't seem to "pop" when just idling.</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: blue;">I found a chart in the FSM with the testing values for the EGRT, and
picked a resistance value from the middle of the chart In a local
electronics store I picked up a pack of resisters close to that middle
value. Bending the leads on the resistor, I stuck it directly into the
empty EGRT plug, taped it up and no more code 51!</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: blue;">I stopped looking for a new computer.</span>"<br />
<br />
I haven't been able to find what I used, but looking at FSM Figure C1-23 -
REGTS Characteristic, I would<b><span style="color: red;"> select a 100K ohm resister.</span></b> But it looks
like anything from 125K to about 40K should work. <br />
<br />
EGR -------------------------<br />
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Auto Trans check from Sidekick FSM<br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-50331922914910694112016-07-16T08:12:00.001-07:002016-07-16T08:12:53.689-07:00Horn wiring diagramthis is for someone on the TracKick forum <a href="http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-x/" target="_blank">http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-x/</a><br />
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Horn wiring diagram from the 94/95 wiring manual. <br />
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-76468543847955460642016-06-11T12:45:00.000-07:002016-10-26T23:06:17.894-07:00TracKick Projector HeadlightsI have never been impressed with the headlights on our TracKicks. Even new they were not very good. Age has effected the reflector material inside, so they just do not do the job as they should.<br />
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A while back I ordered a pair of Nilight® 2.5" Mini HID Bixenon Projector Headlight modules to see if there was something that could be done.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauOmkR_YQ5iPJ-Mc0fnpROeFL7FMP7F5nUtFNUP_aSqqOKB8weQ_cCwqxJZNK90gXFbf9LOqcbUXUyXVIlDZqizNRRWxGU0c0IfrDOdSnx4_jWcTAoBBFWUUiJCiAtrhMvpXToGQ4pHE/s1600/00+kit.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauOmkR_YQ5iPJ-Mc0fnpROeFL7FMP7F5nUtFNUP_aSqqOKB8weQ_cCwqxJZNK90gXFbf9LOqcbUXUyXVIlDZqizNRRWxGU0c0IfrDOdSnx4_jWcTAoBBFWUUiJCiAtrhMvpXToGQ4pHE/s320/00+kit.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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One of my Trackers came to me with very poor headlights. Rather than toss them, I figured on using these for experimenting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBAkgJ_fsNAMwHwEtfYCCRa0ZyatTx0RXKTM0M9VWrqR0VN8O9SL9bDKt7jw_MxTNxIHCYpvG8nPIjFVl25xssnICOciQmAvFhdkhB3wPYRbf8p8Xp4wzejkyRo5c1KmWhQkA50Xc5-BQ/s1600/00+before.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="118" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBAkgJ_fsNAMwHwEtfYCCRa0ZyatTx0RXKTM0M9VWrqR0VN8O9SL9bDKt7jw_MxTNxIHCYpvG8nPIjFVl25xssnICOciQmAvFhdkhB3wPYRbf8p8Xp4wzejkyRo5c1KmWhQkA50Xc5-BQ/s320/00+before.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You can see the black berry vines/leaves INSIDE these lights. I had already replaced them with some from my parts rig. (Even the "new" ones had a rock chip hole in one of them.) These were in my scrap pile.<br />
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I tossed them in the oven at 180 degrees F. After a while (longer is better) the glue/sealant is so soft the cover will come off with very little prying. (Both were already broken and the first one shattered when prying after only 30 min in the oven.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkdEVIPHZQs8gb9YpKAdvFRQRyDJf8fmfFYni0HZhzzdvvqg1YiDV-cXRNrUVGEz6aZr63j3PUOqc1BszpwSH7_wYAUYV-JvtWdkgNQJJ8ILre2Nxh-caHnu-RxwNpV7T_Qd7bRPmqRg/s1600/01+opened.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkdEVIPHZQs8gb9YpKAdvFRQRyDJf8fmfFYni0HZhzzdvvqg1YiDV-cXRNrUVGEz6aZr63j3PUOqc1BszpwSH7_wYAUYV-JvtWdkgNQJJ8ILre2Nxh-caHnu-RxwNpV7T_Qd7bRPmqRg/s320/01+opened.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The light guide/bulb shield needs removed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbK4sbDRJXQExjv2DriwGM_BxSG8Kr0FQorS8FKXmSJlXrMYUXZoDR4mA2EYjznvH7E2TTl87nfIMnNz8IG9B3PF4ABEADMrm9ncjQ0xBi47YHXTSn6jzD0xW5O5T-dTe7OoznZWgz-Bw/s1600/02+removed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbK4sbDRJXQExjv2DriwGM_BxSG8Kr0FQorS8FKXmSJlXrMYUXZoDR4mA2EYjznvH7E2TTl87nfIMnNz8IG9B3PF4ABEADMrm9ncjQ0xBi47YHXTSn6jzD0xW5O5T-dTe7OoznZWgz-Bw/s320/02+removed.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Then, after cleaning, the projector can be installed.<br />
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They say the module is water proof.... but I can not see how it could be. I need to figure out some kind of cover for the light. It isn't quite as easy as it would seem.<br />
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The projector is longer than the housing, but the stock glass cover/lens looks like it would cover them. The problem is, the stock lens has the lines that bend and distort the light... Yes, the stock bulb needs them to put the light where it is needed, but they are not needed for the projectors. If fact it would likely scatter the light and cause glare to on-coming traffic.<br />
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I need to find something clear that would come close to the stock lens in height. If plastic, I might even need more distance from the projector due to heat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrqbZQDD9bXxMV8OwUV1mi7XNrYK25cqLJKL0CgNlUjmxjTBU2TCPg7cgOij_IvBQN8uULrZYGldxPueODnuJtRaplfSNDmTyCPC8cOs973SZCijNGcs0vv6Pih6l8CIj3oaMG3d5Zl8/s1600/20+cover+end.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrqbZQDD9bXxMV8OwUV1mi7XNrYK25cqLJKL0CgNlUjmxjTBU2TCPg7cgOij_IvBQN8uULrZYGldxPueODnuJtRaplfSNDmTyCPC8cOs973SZCijNGcs0vv6Pih6l8CIj3oaMG3d5Zl8/s320/20+cover+end.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I may or not worry about duplicating the stock sealing surface.<br />
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Leaving the cover to think about, I wanted to see the pattern the projectors produce. They say that these will work with "H1" bulbs or an HID H1 kit.<br />
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As this is just testing, I picked up a single H1 bulb. --> it did not fit the housing.<br />
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As I was tired at the time, I put it all on the shelf and will work on it later.<br />
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There is lots of room around the projector for angel/devil eye, LED daytime running lights or other additions. There is even a reflector section (near the blinker end) that is un-used on North American Market TracKicks but are used in other markets. <br />
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Comments, suggestions or ideas?<br />
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I'll get back to this... someday. ;-) <br />
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10/26/2016 -- update ----<br />
<br />
I found my jewelers file set and filled out the projectors so the "rated" H1 bulb would fit. When I went to power the bulb, I noticed there is not any ground connection on the projectors. (An H1 bulb is very simple with only a single spade connection on the bulb itself.) Even though they claim these are H1 projectors, I suspect they are pretty much meant to have "H1 HID" upgrades installed. <br />
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After rigging a ground I got it lit up. I found that I had it installed upside down. (High/Low beam "flapper" device actually goes on the bottom.) When I got it straight, and just testing in a darkened kitchen with a regular H1 bulb, it seemed like it had a "pretty good pattern" with a good cut off. <br />
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I also picked up some LED modules the might make good DRL's inside the housings.<br />
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When I have more time, I will take some pictures while I figure out some kind of clear cover to replace the stock lenses.<br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-35803395630064134992016-06-06T10:11:00.000-07:002016-06-11T12:45:50.237-07:00stickers on the underside of the hoodhave not posted in a while.<br />
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Here are a few pics requested by "friends" on the forum.<br />
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This are the stickers on the underside of the hood, 1989 8v auto trans, US market.<br />
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I will be posting more project related things soon as my schedule has changed and I should have more time.<br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-51557555186713034142015-12-21T10:59:00.002-08:002015-12-21T11:07:45.666-08:00New (to Me) 16v motorSurfing Craigslist, I found a 16v motor just like the one I swapped from my grey 1992 into the white 1994. It even came with a wire harness and computer that could be used to make the 16v work in one of the 8v bodies I currently have.<br />
<br />
Drove a few hours to get it, we also needed to lift it over a fence.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGEdohChDMXgTT7XL9YFy3YSAvRsNwyg8j9QmdbAbkogcoNqTO5ByTiBbwNYlsLwllaVnHIIPFv8Bnaq5F8zsPASbf4UJ4NOHCoeYCyD5SZUXyNKeApE3TmqP42h1sJCAnzWoXxXrA-QU/s1600/IMG-20151220-WA0000.jpeg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGEdohChDMXgTT7XL9YFy3YSAvRsNwyg8j9QmdbAbkogcoNqTO5ByTiBbwNYlsLwllaVnHIIPFv8Bnaq5F8zsPASbf4UJ4NOHCoeYCyD5SZUXyNKeApE3TmqP42h1sJCAnzWoXxXrA-QU/s320/IMG-20151220-WA0000.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br />
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it was stuffed into the rear of the white 1994 4 door.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqaV0iI3Tihrwv0sCK2JhARTf_-Lsx7Irh5tXMLCGXlvIlpQVxWZGqJL4y6B55Jmi_kqvqlFb5ZDL9QBwXoJJJylcgyfxf1XlNepYtUHo7TBuYOmLlRi__XTL9hDIAVCPPnSRMeBUV1g/s1600/IMG-20151220-WA0002.jpeg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqaV0iI3Tihrwv0sCK2JhARTf_-Lsx7Irh5tXMLCGXlvIlpQVxWZGqJL4y6B55Jmi_kqvqlFb5ZDL9QBwXoJJJylcgyfxf1XlNepYtUHo7TBuYOmLlRi__XTL9hDIAVCPPnSRMeBUV1g/s320/IMG-20151220-WA0002.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br />
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At home I used a cherry picker to get it out and onto the wooden stand. (seen here propping up the motor.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiST8dD8AtbjuG_Rtanq-5jI6nTBVzJvlY_oBVMQ9jaCqj7nu5tyWdbYnpYDWLuYrOjH4zENP1XyVfpQPs1ositdNve8z777rVO9O0HgMA4jdrmEOBJFNfD8bkmEqCQJvWaOYS-VpooRnk/s1600/20151220_151039.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiST8dD8AtbjuG_Rtanq-5jI6nTBVzJvlY_oBVMQ9jaCqj7nu5tyWdbYnpYDWLuYrOjH4zENP1XyVfpQPs1ositdNve8z777rVO9O0HgMA4jdrmEOBJFNfD8bkmEqCQJvWaOYS-VpooRnk/s320/20151220_151039.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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As of now, I do not know what body this motor is going into.<br />
<br />
I am thinking the grey 1992... If I can do something about the missing 3rd gear in the 4 speed auto.<br />
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But it could also find it's way in front of a five speed in the little 1994 two door tin top. Replacing a dead 8v motor. That is over 15% increase in power!<br />
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I have to think a bit on it. Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-78932999895506292012015-12-21T10:39:00.000-08:002015-12-21T10:43:44.025-08:001998 Tracker passes emissions... but there is a catchAfter much cleaning of the EGR passages, The last day of my temp tag I was able to get the Tracker to complete all the tests.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDZ7jb06xaRPyccEH1bg6I-F1ajcjfnZYoPXOOYEdhV2zMTwDf14o7dRqlGkWemwvOLdbE_EAm29c1vcSa8OsB-M4BgFzpwwweO9adcH5CmGERMxEJZNKbcX5DGq96oAp1TzISBFzicM8/s1600/IMG_3663.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDZ7jb06xaRPyccEH1bg6I-F1ajcjfnZYoPXOOYEdhV2zMTwDf14o7dRqlGkWemwvOLdbE_EAm29c1vcSa8OsB-M4BgFzpwwweO9adcH5CmGERMxEJZNKbcX5DGq96oAp1TzISBFzicM8/s320/IMG_3663.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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I used Torque software on the smart phone and a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter.<br />
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I had read the requirements for the ECU to run the EGR tests, so it wasn't hard to get it to run the tests. Warmed it up. Drove a nice level piece of road without changing the throttle any. Then decelerated for a bit. Stopped turned off the motor. after a few minutes, restart and do the same steps on the return trip. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFCjUHC1ERYKTBT_QnWDWfPaOhkrab050VkMC88NIs7EWSOaxUcD1IORKKQnE0ToDHAiPscTeEj65-t28LgWDVrE6NYkdaswY-IkOH0Lujv8VmqzIt3z7AAGtw8EohQB7yXhpucZAmKFQ/s1600/IMG_3671.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFCjUHC1ERYKTBT_QnWDWfPaOhkrab050VkMC88NIs7EWSOaxUcD1IORKKQnE0ToDHAiPscTeEj65-t28LgWDVrE6NYkdaswY-IkOH0Lujv8VmqzIt3z7AAGtw8EohQB7yXhpucZAmKFQ/s320/IMG_3671.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
EGR passed. (see the bottom item?)<br />
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Problem (the catch) is that the noise from the Transmission has gotten very bad. It seems to "rattle" anytime the input shaft of the transmission is turning and never when it would be still. I was afraid driving it would damage the transmission even more. Maybe to the point of making it non-repairable. I did not know the procedure to get the ECU to run the other tests but figured a long drive would do it.<br />
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But it was the last day I could drive it legally.... so I ignored the rattle took it for a long drive. I also ordered a transmission from a JDM parts importer I had used in the past.<br />
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It worked. First this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSNnR_gs8h-tepRp6FNZxuzkHr66WD0p3fglARvDs2-6KJN_AE2q-kz6HmkxzOn5zlt9BRWfV8Z_3sMvySgDqH_fPeEns4X354saP57djONWJ1JgUqD6fOdziIJ6D3PJzxm2olaxifxjM/s1600/IMG_3672.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSNnR_gs8h-tepRp6FNZxuzkHr66WD0p3fglARvDs2-6KJN_AE2q-kz6HmkxzOn5zlt9BRWfV8Z_3sMvySgDqH_fPeEns4X354saP57djONWJ1JgUqD6fOdziIJ6D3PJzxm2olaxifxjM/s320/IMG_3672.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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Then these:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfZIm57OgZPjwHOA07SBzgdmpgLVP2-jRhle5LQIWOl8r3rqRHyJxY3m38sMejFMcVsp2desPidNTz12JXjIj3Z3NA98StInLpVCOM6ZgpsGFuFuqn1DAAcMnHALF_6urpYGUVZZyvvg/s1600/IMG_3673.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfZIm57OgZPjwHOA07SBzgdmpgLVP2-jRhle5LQIWOl8r3rqRHyJxY3m38sMejFMcVsp2desPidNTz12JXjIj3Z3NA98StInLpVCOM6ZgpsGFuFuqn1DAAcMnHALF_6urpYGUVZZyvvg/s320/IMG_3673.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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I drove it home and ran it through emissions the next day. It is good for six months. So insurance is placed on hold until the transmission is changed. At that time, it will be registered. I do not really NEED a convertible in the winter anyway!Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-80154397516546576642015-12-21T10:13:00.000-08:002015-12-21T10:44:00.065-08:00The Extraction of GMC #1There was an offer on my first motorhome, a 1973 GMC. But it had not been started for about 5 years. It was also full of stuff that many would call junk. It took over a month, but I got it cleaned out, started, dug out of the ground it had sank into. I uncovered it and tried to drive it to firmer ground.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ucosU3J1YwciKXbjpsPLtnnM-jrKOBUnp37bblPr5xFV0cxoKvlBLjVToeJ5jHinFPhh8M_pVlDKH8GdjocIO-fSnWqEoHjcsRY8sNF7_V9fCAC5EbCUh-Y89QGjTEQ2aWaSqSvk-D8/s1600/IMAG0297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ucosU3J1YwciKXbjpsPLtnnM-jrKOBUnp37bblPr5xFV0cxoKvlBLjVToeJ5jHinFPhh8M_pVlDKH8GdjocIO-fSnWqEoHjcsRY8sNF7_V9fCAC5EbCUh-Y89QGjTEQ2aWaSqSvk-D8/s320/IMAG0297.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It slipped off the supporting planks I had under the tires and sank back into the soft ground.<br />
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More digging.<br />
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We hooked on with my white Sidekick, put it into 4 Low. The Kick added just enough forward movement to get the GMC across the soft spot.<br />
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It is now in the new owner's storage yard.<br />
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Next project!Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-78468762922368306132015-10-29T00:48:00.000-07:002015-10-29T00:48:42.583-07:00Two More Trackers!Bouncing around the net I found a good deal on a package deal for two 2 door TinTop Trackers. Both are 4x4 and 5 speed sticks.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggAXNVv0s69zKFRYbE7d_lKmBdsXPxwnTitj-iFWK8JIBEXPgqDLl05nbZk4dosKOQ5CmUxqtKlLUtq6ss5cNCxeW-p1dWxSZyDd7UMJFH2hTmFj-MsbRo2OneNp9oHt45_QDOx8yWu7o/s1600/IMG_3609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggAXNVv0s69zKFRYbE7d_lKmBdsXPxwnTitj-iFWK8JIBEXPgqDLl05nbZk4dosKOQ5CmUxqtKlLUtq6ss5cNCxeW-p1dWxSZyDd7UMJFH2hTmFj-MsbRo2OneNp9oHt45_QDOx8yWu7o/s320/IMG_3609.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I really liked the white 1994, but it doesn't run.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmtz296EMSJObZE9MZEbJdmJq7RMsOojM5YABmlYYQCr7eD830eEAJV-igKWaJtfZu8M5J4vj9-dhyphenhyphenshlAIpkTbQ1b3SK6xNJUGc3w_TRv6Y-9DX0BWP_ei-t4-vh9fayUq6EP2Qxi08A/s1600/IMG_3610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmtz296EMSJObZE9MZEbJdmJq7RMsOojM5YABmlYYQCr7eD830eEAJV-igKWaJtfZu8M5J4vj9-dhyphenhyphenshlAIpkTbQ1b3SK6xNJUGc3w_TRv6Y-9DX0BWP_ei-t4-vh9fayUq6EP2Qxi08A/s320/IMG_3610.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The black 1993 runs, but poorly.<br />
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Both have over 300,000 miles.<br />
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I should be able to fix both and sell one to cover most of the costs.<br />
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Now I currently have 8 TracKicks. While I believe you can never have enough of them, my neighbors are beginning to wonder about me.<br />
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But, I can not work on any of these yet. I have made a deal to sell one of my three motohomes.<br />
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So my next project is to empty that, and get it running.<br />
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I might take pictures of the last bit as the first isn't that interesting.<br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-70722127831437102072015-10-26T13:34:00.000-07:002015-10-26T13:34:43.485-07:001998 Tracker - bumper and grille.I went ahead and installed the original bumper and grille for now. I might swap them out later, but I need to get on to other projects right now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcK0GCgWLGfW5jhqe6p-1UhNx0s40kEGUs3I8f3FeqEISN58SQho6aK1ROTHBT965eTMrYVKPnOVI19dBoR_k7Vfw8N1NfJLCWBj43KjCBhKaIBH4MXLdDCp_ipI-hDxOS_2afXzjhylc/s1600/IMG_3643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcK0GCgWLGfW5jhqe6p-1UhNx0s40kEGUs3I8f3FeqEISN58SQho6aK1ROTHBT965eTMrYVKPnOVI19dBoR_k7Vfw8N1NfJLCWBj43KjCBhKaIBH4MXLdDCp_ipI-hDxOS_2afXzjhylc/s320/IMG_3643.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I think I'll get some insurance and a temp tag to drive it for now. Once I am sure of it, I'll put it up for sale. <br />
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I have several more new projects in the works. Like the two 2 door TinTop Trackers (one white, one black) in this picture. Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-86577235093811795952015-10-26T13:11:00.000-07:002015-10-26T13:25:38.617-07:00BathroomWhile it was done in my house, i didn't do that much (any) of the work.<br />
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I had hoped to move out of the house and THEN remodel and sell the house without ever living in the house.<br />
<br />
But the hall way bathroom started falling apart and there still are not openings where I wish to transfer to.<br />
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My neighbor is a contractor who does lots of bathrooms. He told me business was slow so I put him to work.<br />
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I forgot to take a before picture but it was bad. There was lots of water damage but no mold/mildew.<br />
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Most of the floor needed replaced. Some structure under the floor needed added to ensure the new floor was strong enough.<br />
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The following pictures are two weeks (and lots of $$$$) later.<br />
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The ceiling vent fan also has a light and a heater. After installing it, Jose ordered one for his bathroom. I'll be getting another for the other bathroom and we just had a visitor use the bathroom and he is ordering one also!<br />
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Stuff I found.<br />
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We still have a cabinet and some towel racks to install. But it is already much better than before.<br />
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I'd estimate the resell value of the house just went up over $10k. <br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-14237408694830234942015-10-26T12:39:00.001-07:002015-10-26T12:39:26.589-07:00Dating Site ProjectAs I have became single, I have found out I do not like being single.<br />
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But the correct woman for me is very special, to be able to put up with some of my odd ways. I expect her to be currently living in another country, but could be wrong. <br />
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As a "project" I have signed up for a bunch of dating sites to cast a very wide net.. As I can not pay for each and every site, and then weed through the replies for the few that were truly interested, read my profile and would put up with what I wrote about myself there, I just mentioned this blog.<br />
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This seems to get by the screeners for the dating sites and should screen out anyone not really reading the profile and still being interested.<br />
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So, if you happen to be one of the ladies that have read and understand, please make a comment with some contact information. We'll then see how compatible we are.<br />
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Thank you, Michael<br />
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<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-61342489677858114992015-10-08T09:05:00.000-07:002015-10-08T09:05:41.394-07:00New top!I picked up a Rampage top on the net.<br />
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It didn't take much to swap them out.<br />
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I like the white on white look. It'll even be better after a move to Arizona... someday.<br />
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I drove it to get gas.<br />
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Drives nice and peppy with the stick. I haven't owned a stick in 30 years!<br />
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Stock white paint comes off in places with a pressure washer.<br />
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Not sure If I'll go with a 4 door Sidekick bumper or not. If I use the Tracker bumper, I'll need to trim the Sidekick grille. I am fairly sure I will NOT use the Tracker Grille. One of my 2 door grilles has a broken "ear" anyway....<br />
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Hmmm... <br />
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I still need to swap the windshield with the parts Kick.<br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-27874991069369330782015-10-05T06:47:00.000-07:002015-10-05T06:47:43.814-07:00 The Tracker now runs like a top! I have been working on the Tracker while it was still on the trailer. I just did not have room to for both it and the trailer. The flatbed is a little better than jacking on gravel.<br />
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<br />The motor was now running but very rough. It would not idle enough to start it and get out to check the motor. I figured old gas and drained the tank and replaced the filter. While I had it jacked up, I swapped out the wheels/tires with the set that came with the '94 parts Kick. Both being two wheel drives, the different tire sizes are OK and gives a nice "rake" look you should not have with a 4x4. Still on the bad gas theory, I also swapped out the fuel injectors with some I had on hand from a JDM motor. While I was at it I replaced the valve cover gasket and adjusted the valves.<br /><br />Still ran like crap even with new gas.<br />
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While it was on jack stands with the tires removed, I swapped out the
fender with one I had laying around. I also cleaned, treated and
painted the damaged and rusted leading edge of the door. <br />
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<br />My clip on for the remote starter does not fit well on the lug on the starter, so I made an extension for it. This keeps the normal system connected but provides a location to quickly attach the remote start button. (Just make sure it is not is gear!)<br />
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<br />After being able to start it while being at the engine bay, I was able to do the normal checks you do on a poorly running motor. I found the "base" timing set to about 80 degrees advance! (Spec is 5.)<br />
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<br /><br />The distributor was all the way to one end of the slot. I had to turn it all the way the other way, remove the bolt and keep turning... this next picture shows the location when the timing was correct.<br /><br />After I removed the distributor and repositioned the rotor to place the distributor bolt centered in the slot with the proper timing.<br /><br />The Tracker now runs like a top! Time to take it off the trailer and test drive it!<br /><br />The motorhome handles this load much better than the Boo!<br />
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<br /><br />After the test drive around the block. Being a smaller 2 door, with not much interior (or front bumper) and the stick shift, it seems very peppy compared to the 4 door autos I have been driving. <br />
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<br />What do you think of the "raked" look?<br />
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Next is to replace the top!<br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-42479988083433981782015-09-10T07:39:00.001-07:002015-09-10T07:39:20.784-07:001998 Tracker front bumperI had to remove the front bumper to replace the front fender. Here are my note and thoughts about what I found. <br />
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The nose of Trackers got a "face lift" for 1996. Different grille and bumper. I personally find the change ugly and think the earlier Trackers have a MUCH cleaner look. But there is some interesting things to note.<br />
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The bumper is flush to the bottom edge of the fender, there was even shims under the upper bumper attachment points to raise the bumper to the fenders. <br />
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The mounting points are not like my other two door TracKicks. Even though this two door frame is different than the four doors, these bumper attachment points LOOK to be like all my standard four door TracKicks. <br />
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<br />The upper mounting points... just like the four door. Also in this shot is where the center of the bumper dips a little to match the ugly grille.<br />
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This is the back side of the of the bumper impact bar. Looks just like the four door one I have laying around. I test fitted the one from a 1994 four door Sidekick.... seems to fit fine. the lower grille screw fastening points also match the four door.<br />
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I should be able to clean up the looks of this Tracker. :) <br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-16516760902949135572015-09-10T07:20:00.002-07:002015-09-10T07:20:56.578-07:00Front Fender replacementThe right front fender is damaged. It interferes with the opening of the door. The door was getting rusty along the leading edge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJo9UlW9GAQ16m-JhR4kmodGZVXcKbtCNL1Vn3jGOIjTxFf0DOZKOQGHmhxIul_98HUJ9b761pXzHyvOM1QoOEIy2vrJ3DLPdZmwxR9ej_NFAjqZ47NLiMJODzh2PbTx42s-J6IUWK_GA/s1600/1+IMG_3249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJo9UlW9GAQ16m-JhR4kmodGZVXcKbtCNL1Vn3jGOIjTxFf0DOZKOQGHmhxIul_98HUJ9b761pXzHyvOM1QoOEIy2vrJ3DLPdZmwxR9ej_NFAjqZ47NLiMJODzh2PbTx42s-J6IUWK_GA/s320/1+IMG_3249.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I have had similar problems with other rigs. Never really fixed it without replacing the fender. I have some fenders on order for my TinTop project. I think I'll "steal" the old fender from it.<br />
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To remove the fender: Loosen or remove the inner fender. Remove the front bumper for access to the screw on the lower front . Remove the tailing edge lower bolts at the pinch weld. Unbolt the upper fender extension. Then all you need to remove are the four bolts on the upper edge in the engine bay.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1QegyBzJbMLl5fctM6inrW1mg2UQ4qeAq4KtIp3fLwvT6sOuKni5Nt7dL8edkU6X7pEOoBq-0CHByEys0510QSxOHeJo4tJ1Jqwo2aRY2QONhXIEOxq7grd6OU8Lssjv6fUD27rctUS4/s1600/IMG_3280.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1QegyBzJbMLl5fctM6inrW1mg2UQ4qeAq4KtIp3fLwvT6sOuKni5Nt7dL8edkU6X7pEOoBq-0CHByEys0510QSxOHeJo4tJ1Jqwo2aRY2QONhXIEOxq7grd6OU8Lssjv6fUD27rctUS4/s320/IMG_3280.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I removed the rust, treaded sanded and primed the leading edge of the door.<br />
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Now that it is installed it can me sanded and primed (eventually painted) without deforming the fender.<br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-56042812616938349272015-09-10T06:55:00.000-07:002015-09-10T07:02:34.551-07:00The reason you do not use larger fuses in anything!Radio wiring repair and easy off switch <br />
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While cleaning the interior (with the battery disconnected) I noticed a wire that just didn't look right.<br />
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The wire looks like it WAS solid white... that would be +12 volt constant (not switched) and really needs to be checked out before putting the battery back in.<br />
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Following back to the other end of the harness, I see this. The wire looks to be melted for it's full length. Melting wires inside a bundle of wires can be a VERY bad thing. With out a complete disassembly and inspection, you have no idea what wires are shorted to what other wires.<br />
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I pulled the harness from the car and removed the melted wire. It did damage a few other wires, a little bit. Mostly just deformed and discolored bit about three spots could have shorted to +12v constant hot. (I had started this car!)<br />
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Besides repairing the damaged wires and replacing the melted one, I modified the harness, adding an additional switch to the switched power to the radio. It has a position to turn off the radio without messing with the actual radio. (Some newer after-market radios are very hard to turn off so this is the main reason for this mod,) The added switch will also let the radio work without the ignition being on, or as normal.<br />
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While the harness was out, I put bullet connectors on the radio wires. It will be fairly easy to install a radio. (I now use these connectors anytime I install a radio. Makes them easy to move from car to car.) Notice the on/off/on switch. Up is normal, down allows the radio to work with no key. The center position removed switched power from the radio. <br />
<br />Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25982401692631635.post-84530912419748117612015-09-10T06:24:00.002-07:002015-09-10T06:24:27.097-07:00Ripped Zipper from topI am posting these pictures to be able to email for someone to repair the top. I hope to update this post with the repair.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtuRRPS5gmXur8kwTO_Z0hUrNYvZIAxYYLVOzRrqn2pPe_dxh0BOPil0iMRsfrPO3eTPrBKIKAgzI9FAH3CUPv6rJXlqNDabRF5eaoVqkbm_Wfo5xMCacU240YTlqN8Ukm9T6BU7VOylM/s1600/IMG_2963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtuRRPS5gmXur8kwTO_Z0hUrNYvZIAxYYLVOzRrqn2pPe_dxh0BOPil0iMRsfrPO3eTPrBKIKAgzI9FAH3CUPv6rJXlqNDabRF5eaoVqkbm_Wfo5xMCacU240YTlqN8Ukm9T6BU7VOylM/s320/IMG_2963.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I just tried to un-zip the rear window and the threads holding the zipper failed. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq0zBPmFDevl3CJay_599AvjlT7r0GSaeZyuA7IbrBu4QL0CZXgSz8nnqWiOBb5a5W9dgSfrLyYX4iwCabwWyu9otl3YyB6bmBSe9fafrv_dsFxdm5XCy7UlNWW6zq54jPZ3MDyRdKi-0/s1600/IMG_2964.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq0zBPmFDevl3CJay_599AvjlT7r0GSaeZyuA7IbrBu4QL0CZXgSz8nnqWiOBb5a5W9dgSfrLyYX4iwCabwWyu9otl3YyB6bmBSe9fafrv_dsFxdm5XCy7UlNWW6zq54jPZ3MDyRdKi-0/s320/IMG_2964.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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They look to be dry rotted. I left them alone and threw a tarp over the whole thing. <br />
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08120103827952010920noreply@blogger.com0