This motor and transmission were covered in oil and grime. As this motor was out and stripped down to the short block, I could not see NOT changing the seals.
As the subject of seals often comes up in the forum, I separated it from the engine post.
This is the method I used:
Drill or otherwise poke a hole in the seal. I have hammered a nail into seals in the past.
Pry out the seal attempting to keep from damaging the surrounding area.
Clean (shown vacuuming) any bits and pieces from the old seal (drilling makes some) and ensure the mating surface is ready for the new seal.
Collect the tools needed to install the seals. I just pulled out the tool kit I collected when the dealers closed. ( I bought several incomplete sets off eBay to make one complete set.)
This is an incomplete set but it has the tools for this job. The manual is invaluable to select the proper tool.
The blue cone is the rear main seal tool, The block cone and bolt are for both front seals the small black sleeve is to protect the seal during the front crank seal install.
A trick from the low range off road instructional videos, wet the seal by dropping in water.
Place it in line with the hole, and drive it in with the tool. With the water "lubing" the edge of the seal, I really did not need the mallet. But I still smacked it a few times.
Most seals are properly installed when the edge is flush with the surrounding area.
You do not NEED the proper tool to install seals but they help to set the seal at the correct depth without over driving the seal to deep and possibly beyond the point it can keep the case sealed. (Both the heads I am working with on this project had seals driven too deep.) People normally use a appropriate sized socket or pipe to drive the seal into place. (I have even installed the larger rear seal on a J18 motor with a couple of PVC pipes and a block of wood.) Seal installation without the proper tools, using the "water trick", it should be fairly easy to do and ... to over do. Be careful as you drive the seals in.
This is a rear seal driven in to the proper depth.
Lube the rotating part with some type of lube. I used grease.
It wasn't hard to slip the seal over the end of the greased crank and bolt the seal carrier in place. OBTW: The old seal was very brittle and hard, but it was in one piece.
Below I am greasing the sleeve and the crank for the front seal install. If you do not have a sleeve, there is a trick of making a sleeve out of slick plastic electrical tape. You wrap the crank snout with tape so it kind of looks like the sleeve in the picture below. Grease it up and continue. I have installed them in the past with tape, grease and a socket.
Soaking the seal.
Place the seal and install the tool...
Tighten down and the seal is in place. The tool keeps the seal from being "over driven."
Perfect!
I followed the same procedure for the cam seal. No sleeve needed.
OBTW the exact same seal is used for both the front crank and
the cam. Both front and cam seals were fairly new and really did not
need changed.... other than the cam seal have been set too deep.
Yes, you can do this without the fancy tools, but the water trick and the proper tools make it simple.
Now back to the engine post....
BE SURE TO TORQUE THE LARGE CRANK BOLT TO THE PROPER SPECS.... IT IS 94 ft/lbs for the G16 motors. Too low of torque has been known to lead to damaged crank key-ways.
