I had to remove the front bumper to replace the front fender. Here are my note and thoughts about what I found.
The nose of Trackers got a "face lift" for 1996. Different grille and bumper. I personally find the change ugly and think the earlier Trackers have a MUCH cleaner look. But there is some interesting things to note.
The bumper is flush to the bottom edge of the fender, there was even shims under the upper bumper attachment points to raise the bumper to the fenders.
The mounting points are not like my other two door TracKicks. Even though this two door frame is different than the four doors, these bumper attachment points LOOK to be like all my standard four door TracKicks.
The upper mounting points... just like the four door. Also in this shot is where the center of the bumper dips a little to match the ugly grille.
This is the back side of the of the bumper impact bar. Looks just like the four door one I have laying around. I test fitted the one from a 1994 four door Sidekick.... seems to fit fine. the lower grille screw fastening points also match the four door.
I should be able to clean up the looks of this Tracker. :)
Thursday, September 10, 2015
Front Fender replacement
The right front fender is damaged. It interferes with the opening of the door. The door was getting rusty along the leading edge.
I have had similar problems with other rigs. Never really fixed it without replacing the fender. I have some fenders on order for my TinTop project. I think I'll "steal" the old fender from it.
To remove the fender: Loosen or remove the inner fender. Remove the front bumper for access to the screw on the lower front . Remove the tailing edge lower bolts at the pinch weld. Unbolt the upper fender extension. Then all you need to remove are the four bolts on the upper edge in the engine bay.
I removed the rust, treaded sanded and primed the leading edge of the door.
Now that it is installed it can me sanded and primed (eventually painted) without deforming the fender.
I have had similar problems with other rigs. Never really fixed it without replacing the fender. I have some fenders on order for my TinTop project. I think I'll "steal" the old fender from it.
To remove the fender: Loosen or remove the inner fender. Remove the front bumper for access to the screw on the lower front . Remove the tailing edge lower bolts at the pinch weld. Unbolt the upper fender extension. Then all you need to remove are the four bolts on the upper edge in the engine bay.
I removed the rust, treaded sanded and primed the leading edge of the door.
Now that it is installed it can me sanded and primed (eventually painted) without deforming the fender.
The reason you do not use larger fuses in anything!
Radio wiring repair and easy off switch
While cleaning the interior (with the battery disconnected) I noticed a wire that just didn't look right.
The wire looks like it WAS solid white... that would be +12 volt constant (not switched) and really needs to be checked out before putting the battery back in.
Following back to the other end of the harness, I see this. The wire looks to be melted for it's full length. Melting wires inside a bundle of wires can be a VERY bad thing. With out a complete disassembly and inspection, you have no idea what wires are shorted to what other wires.
I pulled the harness from the car and removed the melted wire. It did damage a few other wires, a little bit. Mostly just deformed and discolored bit about three spots could have shorted to +12v constant hot. (I had started this car!)
Besides repairing the damaged wires and replacing the melted one, I modified the harness, adding an additional switch to the switched power to the radio. It has a position to turn off the radio without messing with the actual radio. (Some newer after-market radios are very hard to turn off so this is the main reason for this mod,) The added switch will also let the radio work without the ignition being on, or as normal.
While the harness was out, I put bullet connectors on the radio wires. It will be fairly easy to install a radio. (I now use these connectors anytime I install a radio. Makes them easy to move from car to car.) Notice the on/off/on switch. Up is normal, down allows the radio to work with no key. The center position removed switched power from the radio.
While cleaning the interior (with the battery disconnected) I noticed a wire that just didn't look right.
The wire looks like it WAS solid white... that would be +12 volt constant (not switched) and really needs to be checked out before putting the battery back in.
Following back to the other end of the harness, I see this. The wire looks to be melted for it's full length. Melting wires inside a bundle of wires can be a VERY bad thing. With out a complete disassembly and inspection, you have no idea what wires are shorted to what other wires.
I pulled the harness from the car and removed the melted wire. It did damage a few other wires, a little bit. Mostly just deformed and discolored bit about three spots could have shorted to +12v constant hot. (I had started this car!)
Besides repairing the damaged wires and replacing the melted one, I modified the harness, adding an additional switch to the switched power to the radio. It has a position to turn off the radio without messing with the actual radio. (Some newer after-market radios are very hard to turn off so this is the main reason for this mod,) The added switch will also let the radio work without the ignition being on, or as normal.
While the harness was out, I put bullet connectors on the radio wires. It will be fairly easy to install a radio. (I now use these connectors anytime I install a radio. Makes them easy to move from car to car.) Notice the on/off/on switch. Up is normal, down allows the radio to work with no key. The center position removed switched power from the radio.
Ripped Zipper from top
I am posting these pictures to be able to email for someone to repair the top. I hope to update this post with the repair.
I just tried to un-zip the rear window and the threads holding the zipper failed.
They look to be dry rotted. I left them alone and threw a tarp over the whole thing.
I just tried to un-zip the rear window and the threads holding the zipper failed.
They look to be dry rotted. I left them alone and threw a tarp over the whole thing.
Cleaning the Tracker
The Tracker had been left in a field for quite some time. I assume it was there a LOT longer than they claimed. Morning Glory and Blackberry vines had grown up around and inside the Tracker. Nature trying to reclaim the Tracker.
First how it was when I stopped looking and started "just cleaning.
It came with some little friends.
I removed the seats and looked for the proper tool....
Found it!
After blowing out the floor pan, with some scrubbing with a scrub brush to loosen the built up in the corners.
It looks dirtier in the pictures than it really is. The PO had pulled up the old carpet and spray painted everything black.... without cleaning it first.
I had to leave town for a few days, so I installed the seats before I left. They come out fairly easy, so after I get it running and the top fixed, I'll pull them to put in carpet. I have a used carpet from the '94 I might use.
First how it was when I stopped looking and started "just cleaning.
It came with some little friends.
I removed the seats and looked for the proper tool....
Found it!
After blowing out the floor pan, with some scrubbing with a scrub brush to loosen the built up in the corners.
It looks dirtier in the pictures than it really is. The PO had pulled up the old carpet and spray painted everything black.... without cleaning it first.
I had to leave town for a few days, so I installed the seats before I left. They come out fairly easy, so after I get it running and the top fixed, I'll pull them to put in carpet. I have a used carpet from the '94 I might use.
My new Tracker "Special Features"
Besides how dirty the Tracker was, doing a compression check and making it run, (bad distributor cap/rotor) it had some interesting "features." Most not so good. The first pictures are items that do not fit in the specific sections. While it does have some body damage, what do you expect for something broken and "out standing in it's field." ;)
Drivers side rocker panel. The other one is also dented... just not this bad.
Passenger front fender interferes with opening the door. The wire I found connected straight to the battery... no fuse and running though the door. looked at it for about 5 seconds before disconcerting it. Someone was just asking to start an electrical fire.
Worse dent in the upper body proper. looks like I'll be re-learning how to use body hammers, dollies and bondo.
It took quite a while to figure this one out, The radiator supports are bent forward. they jam up the hood latch and it keeps the hood prop from being properly stored.
Both headlight are cracked and broken. If you look closely, you can see green leaves still growing INSIDE the headlights. Black berry vines found a way into the headlights.!
The stock mirrors do not fold. They are fairly tough and most of the time if they hit something they will survive. BUT if you catch them on something while backing up, the break right off. The PO of this Tracker must have had this problem.
I have no clue of the source of this manual mirror. but it will just swing out of the way.
The windshield is broken and will need replaced before being able to drive it. My parts car has a good one. Looks like I get to learn how to do windshields! I checked out the INTERNET for procedures and ordered some tools.
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