Stripping the parts car (Part 4, The Dash)

To get the main harness out of the car, it is easier if you remove the dash.  It is also a good possibility that I'll be using the 1994 dash harness behind my 1989 JLX style dash. In any case, I'll need to compare connectors and pins.  The '94 really doesn't need it anyway...

So...

The steering wheel and the covers for the column need to be removed.  I am fairly sure you can leave the speedometer cluster installed in the dash.  Just disconnect the cable.  You should be able to reach it after the dash is unbolted.
 

You can see the (removed) covers for the top three screws.  There are also three screws at the bottom lip in each foot well. 

I keep forgetting about the grab bar on the dash.  It bolts (4 bolts) to these brackets.  (Shown after dash removal.) They are reached after removing the glove box.

I pulled it out a little and checked that all had been disconnected.  There are 4 or 5 connectors on the drivers side and a few on the passenger side.  The exact number will vary with equipment installed.  Power door locks, power windows,  mirrors and the like.

After making sure all was disconnected, I slid the dash back and rotated it down.

Here is the "stuff" behind the dash... including the main harness.

There are a few wires that hadn't been disconnected. They wires that did not disconnect are from the Suzuki alarm system  I removed this alarm and stored it... most likely never to be used again.  (much better system available for cheap now days.

EDIT: adding picture to show location of the "warning control buzzer."  Note that this is a 1994 8v model.  I have seen this sam buzzer in 3 different locations.

If the dash was installed, this would be above and just to the right (towards the door) of the glovebox.  Notice the bolts/bracket for the grab bar?

Stripping the parts car (Part 3, 8v engine harness)

Now with the body on something stable:

Time to work on the wire harness.  My '89 doesn't have a main or engine harness.

The engine harness

 The end at the fire wall

Just inside the fire wall is the plug to disconnect the engine harness.  I should have left it connected to the engine!

Stripping the parts car (part 2, still chassis)

The body made it "safely" to the supports.  Now it is safe to strip the parts for use on my '89 tin top.

 Used the old "rattle" cans of black paint on the chassis.

I later pulled the motor and transmission and put it in th garage until the tin top body is ready.

 This picture was requested by a "TracKick" forum member.  It is the throttle and kick down cables on the rear (firewall end) of the throttle body.

Stripping the parts car (part 1, Separating the body and chassis) 1994 Sidekick, 1.6 8 valve, two wheel drive.

I have pulled the chassis from my parts Sidekick.  I'll need to figure out a better method of lifting the body from the chassis as I only dropped the body twice when lowering it. :(

I was hoping the cherry picker could reach all the way to the body balance point.

Even with the load leveler all the way forward, it was not the balance point.

I needed to use my motorhome jack to lift the front.

Supported for the roll-out.

 Chassis out, now to lower the body to supports (old tires).

The motorhome jack slipped and the nose hit the ground.  

The seam for the fender (with the bolts) landed on the jack stand.

Doesn't look very safe from this angle.